I've measured using a digital voltmeter the AC voltage on the [SW] terminal and confirmed it receives V when I flip the physical switch. In the off position there is a small residual voltage of about 35V which seems to be "phantom voltage" or inductance from other nearby wires. I've already tried a factory reset, but nothing I have tried is working. Could it be the "phantom voltage" or is there some options for me to try? Hi and good morning vavewelcome to the forum.
Good Luck. Thanks for your suggestions. Tried toggle switch mode, but that does not work either. I've configured another switch directly between [L] and [SW] inputs, but no change in either edge or toggle switch mode. I think, that's the right way. I had 2 Shelly 2. Therefore the physical switches did not work properly. Alterco replaced them quickly and without fuss. So, they are aware that such things happen and react accordingly.
After tidying up the wires and configuring MQTT for integrating with home assistant, I am quite happy with the results.shelly 1 how to wire it
Thanks all. Perfect result. Was this a defective unit? I'm having the exact same problem, I've opened a support ticket right before finding this post. Improved text.
Have you tried, to configure it as "Toggle-Switch"?Suffice it to say that they make or perhaps re-badge in some cases? Just a guess quite a variety of products from relay switches, through energy switches to smart RGBW lights, flood sensors, temperature sensors and more. It also has optional thankfully a cloud service for remote access, services and backup. Many regular readers will be familiar with this.
So is Shelly going to displace Itead makers of the Sonoff series of mains controllers who have been around for some time on grounds of price? No, not a hope in hell. Well, yes is the short answer to the second part above. Whether that is enough for you is another matter.
Shelly One WIFI Switch
Here are a couple of points to consider. The Shelly One, like the Sonoff Basic has a relay output — you can turn things lights, heaters, alarms for example on and off via a variety of means in both cases.
Sonoffs are cheap, have been around for some time and they have nice new boxes. Shelly One is smaller but the box is not so nice — there are a ton of differences but here are ones that matter to me. Both Sonoff Basic and Shelly One can do more than merely turn things on and off but then in both cases it gets more complicated. Both companies — like everyone else out there have their own mobile APP and cloud service.
WE all want to use a variety of products, ideally with a common control system, often of our own making. Who wants to use a dozen, incompatibly different remotes to control gadgets around the house? Erm, no. Is this an unbiased review? So, Shelly One — why this, why now? So no big difference there, except that installing such third party software may or may not be a problem depending on your software skills or lack of said skills. There are several such alternative firmwares, the free Tasmota being as good an example as any.
One result of this flexibility is that you can then control their products by the extremely useful MQTT protocols. With Shelly, you can merely issue a simple MQTT command to disable their own cloud service and use MQTT directly, no third party software required, all over in moments. Just a screwdriver. Also I just realised that unlike the Sonoff Basic and othersthe relay contact pair N.
Most other smart switches common up the neutral line on the assumption it will make life easier for you. For Sonoff Basic, should you need a completely isolated set of relay contacts, then a potentially messy soldering job is ahead of you.
In the more expensive Shelly One, no issue with relay contact isolation, no soldering, job done. Why mention it at all? Well, I need to thermostatically control a heating system that needs an uncommitted contact pair to control it and as it is an expensive system, the les bodging, the better. With Shelly, job done. See the photo of Shelly One at the top of this blog entry — live and neutral in…. Others who quote 10 amp contacts should also phrase their adverts more carefully for the same reason.My Account.
Be smart, not bored Smart Home contest Join Now Shelly 3EM Shelly 3EM shows separately the consumption history for all 3 phases, including energy produced from solar panels and returned to the grid.
Shelly 1. Shelly 1PM. Shelly 2. Shelly EM. Smart Wi-Fi Energy Meter. Shelly Button. Shelly 4 PRO. Shelly Dimmer. Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer. Shelly RGBW2. Smart Door Window sensor. Shelly Flood. Shelly Plug S. Wi-Fi Smart Plug. Shelly Air. Wi-Fi UV-C air purifier. Shelly Plug.
Shelly Bulb. Shelly Smoke. Shelly Eye. Keep an EYE on your home. Shelly Sense. All-in-one WiFi Smart Sensor.My Account. Shelly 1. Shelly 1PM. Shelly 2. Shelly EM. Smart Wi-Fi Energy Meter. Shelly Button. Shelly 4 PRO. Shelly Dimmer. Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer. Shelly RGBW2. Smart Door Window sensor. Shelly Flood. Shelly Plug S. Wi-Fi Smart Plug. Shelly Air. Wi-Fi UV-C air purifier. Shelly Plug. Shelly Bulb. Shelly Smoke. Shelly Eye.
Keep an EYE on your home. Shelly Sense. All-in-one WiFi Smart Sensor.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community. Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account.
Here is what i have configured so far: Setoption1 1 Setoption11 1 setoption32 40 default Switchmode 5. Is this functionality not working because it is seen as a switch and not a button? Or some other reason this isn't working yet? Hi, you are right. Switches only can't handle double press. Triple press is not supported in Tasmota. Buttons support single press, double press and hold Switches as keys, supports just change of state.
Switches as pushbuttons see switchtopic in the wiki supports single press and hold. If you have further questions please do not hesitate to follow one of the provided support entry points listed below. See Wiki for more information.
Shelly1 physical button switch not working
See Community for forum. See Chat for more user experience. I've been going through the wiki, thehookup and DrZzs and with that info i managed to get this working thus far. The info i can't find is the difference between a switch and a button, only that there is.
I can relate it to GPIO-pins or inputs on the ESP-chip, but i can't see why there should be a difference in terminology when i read the wiki. Why is a switch a switch and a button a button and why does it matter? As for the sonoff devices, i can relate that there are soldering points for the psysical button and GPIO pins that you can use for switches but also for sensors etc.
The Shelly1 does only have one connection where i've connected my push button, but for some reason this physical push button is called switch inside Tasmota and there are no settings to be made unless it is configured as a Sonoff Basic. But for some obviously good reason there is a difference in a button and a switch in the sonoff devices and therefore in Tasmota and this also influences the Shelly1.
I will look into the rules. Letscontrolit also has a nice topic on that. EDIT: maybe to clarify. I would like to use the Shelly1 as a cheap remote to control my Philips Hue bulbs with my own Gira push buttons. I don't intend to really use the electric relay of the Shelly1 as the Hue lights always need to be powerd on. In my setup i use Fibaro Dimmer 2's on Z-Wave and this functionality works flawlessly, but the Shelly1 is pricewise a very good alternative, plus i really like the open-source functionality of Tasmota.
Therefore is would be a good match to expand with the Shelly1 instead of Fibaro's. So if i compare the Fibaro with the Shelly, they look almost identically, but there must be something inside why the fibaro can do all that i would like and the Shelly 1 not.
A switch is the key you have in your home to turn on the lights. When you touch it, it flips to on and it keeps that way until you touch again and flips to off.Jump to. Sections of this page. Accessibility help. Join or log in to Facebook. Email or phone. Forgotten account? Sign Up. Q1: What is the difference between Shelly1 and Shelly2? Shelly 1 has one channel with 16A maximum load and external pins for flashing. Shelly 2 is two channel relay with 8A maximum current per channel and it also has feature for power measurement, but measures the total consumption through the two relays.
The Shelly 1 is the only product that has clean contacts also called dry contacts. Shelly 1 PM has power measurement, but on the other side, Shelly 1 has external pins for flashing and clean contacts. Shelly1PM does not have clean contacts also called dry contacts. Also Shelly1PM has temperature and overload protections.
Q3: Is there still a Shelly2?
What is the difference in the Shelly2. The Shelly2. He has separate power measurement for each relay, maximum load is 10A per channel, integrated temperature and overload protection, external antenna for better range, small form factor than Shelly2. Internally they are connected. This is a mode with which you can disable the physical key to which is the Shelly device keys can be used independently of each other relay and key ex. First, make sure that no devices are set up to automatically switch onto an open network, as this might interfere with the setup process.
Perform a factory reset and try the app again. The password is limited to a maximum of Try using a computer or phone with a browser instead. You can then configure the Shelly. We recommend using a static IP address and this is covered in another guide. Once the Shelly device is set up on your network, the phone app will discover it. Q7: Shelly device is powered on but shows as offline in Cloud Application. Try to resolve this step by step. You should hear the relay click rapidly.
You will then need to add the device to your account again. If you have issues with adding it, make sure that you are typing correctly your SSID and password, also check that your router is working on 2. If everything is verified, check the address assigned to Shelly device from your router and type it in your browser.
From the interface click on device rebooting and refresh the page if you see changes. Q8: My device has WiFi periodic connectivity issues.YouTube is the biggest video provider and will not be working for different reasons on occasion, although the cause could be YouTube servers going down during the more extreme events. Google purchased the entertainment platform a number of years ago now, so blame can be directed their way by frustrated users, even if any bugs could be unforeseen.
The millions of video watchers take to YouTube each day for a range of reasons that include watching funny videos, news, recipes, learning how to do DIY, and in fact just about anything you can think, then it would most likely be found on this video platform. Is YouTube down and not working on Monday April 13, ?
If you have problems accessing the video provider then server status updates might be found by others below, or even with the same error and problems you are seeing. Youtube on Roku is not showing the extra info at the bottom of videos, unable to rate up down etc or navigate.
Shelly One WIFI Switch
April 10 am. What is going on??? They need to leave thiings they know nothing about alone! I have changed nothing and it matters not which browser I use. I was making a comment on my compute but the comment is still at the loading up despite the fact I submitted it minutes ago.
Firefox is my browser. It takes forever to open, expand, and comment on comments. Videos can take some time to load and the freeze from time to time also. Sometimes it will refresh itself or go to another page, very annoying. I bet they are tying to stop the ad campaign that is going on Youtube right now. This is insane.
Is anyone able to access their playlist library using the horizontal bars on the top left of the screen? This repeats for any menu feature that occupies the screen. Start watching a video, and the menu that launched it stays in the foreground.